Description: Miniatures may be Lead or White metal, some parts may be plastic or resin. Items will be carefully and professionally packaged in bubble wrap and sent in a Jiffy bag. Metal miniatures are stripped (unless sold as New or Painted), so you can see exactly what you are getting. The picture shows the standard of the item that you will receive, likely not the actual one that you will receive. The picture may show a painted item so you can see what the figure can look like with time and effort. I try to get all items reconditioned back to what they were when originally sold. Any lead rot, it's binned. Damaged or poorly cast items are either binned, or if sold then they are clearly labelled as damaged, as people may want these for conversions. Books are sold as Reconditioned, if they are second hand, or New if they are mint.Additional pictures may show the reverse of item but you only get one of what is shown in the main listing picture. If additional pictures show other items then they will be included. The listing may state "Dwarf 7 Dwarf Dwarves" this means that the original catalogue description was Dwarf 7 and the other descriptors are so people searching can find what they want. Please read full description for exactly what you will receive though, and please be aware that bases are usually not included unless shown in the picture. Item received may be darker than shown, as the camera flash can make the item look brighter. Sorry, but I don't take offers on the price. Please don't contact me asking to buy items cheaper than shown, because if I start to, then I'll be inundated with different people E-Mailing me, which it's nice to chat, but I'd never get anything done. Not that I'm big business, it's just me in the back room. I do not sell fakes/copies. I wouldn't want to be ripped off myself, and wouldn't rip off others. I've been in contact with Games Workshop in the past, for their advice over this, I will report people who do, and will continue to do so. Fakes are theft. People who do so are stealing, and make peoples collections worthless. If you see it, report it.COMBINED POSTAGE: If ONLY buying this type of item the postage discounts usually offered when buying multiples does not apply. This is because I've calculated this items postage costs using the E-Bay function. I've tried to get the amounts as close to Royal Mail prices as possible. I may be able to combine postage costs if you buy other items as well, such as miniatures. If you do buy other items that state on the listing that combined postage is offered, then Please use the basket and then request the combined invoice that will save you money. If E-Bay won't let you request an invoice, use E-Bay.co.UK & not E-Bay.COM or other E-Bay sites. If unable to use the basket, commit to buy each item BUT DO NOT PAY, wait, and I'll send an invoice to you. Also some mobile device Apps don't allow it as they show less options on the page, if you use a PC, then it likely will. Postage price includes the protective packaging and combined postage savings usually notice at 3 items or more. Please only pay the discounted postage invoice. If unhappy with the postage cost, please contact me, prior to paying, to discuss. Higher value orders will be sent signed delivery, this may also be dependent on the country and buyer ratings. PLEASE CONTACT ME BEFORE LEAVING ANY BAD FEEDBACK. Items are sent out the same or the next day. Unfortunately I have no control over rare postal delays, please be mindful of this if leaving low star ratings. Thank you.Check out my shop for quality, hard to find, original items available worldwide. The shop links in this part of the listing will show more items for sale than other links or shop icons elsewhere on this page. SHOP LINK: Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium Thanks for looking. BAG SIZE 2. Base Weighting Beads Basing 20mm 25mm 30mm 40mm 50mm Round Square Plastic 40K Lead Shot.Tired of your plastic models falling over? Plastic models with plastic bases can fall over, or be easily toppled or moved in gameplay. Very noticeable with the Standards or banner bearers but even standard troops like the Warhammer 40K Tyranid Hormagaunts have this issue. Even some Games Workshop Citadel metal miniatures have the same issue as they can be top heavy due to a high centre of gravity. Why spend all that time putting a miniature together and painting it up, to whatever standard you paint to, to have it fall over and be chipped, bent, damaged or broken. A lot of people use metal washers (which can rust) instead of plastic bases, but this may not be practical for regiments of units and you don't get the nice chamfered sides that plastic bases offer. Plus the plastic bases have become a gaming industry standard, especially for Warhammer Fantasy Battle (WHFB), Warhammer 40K and various other games. These Lead beads work with regimented or skirmish units, with or without movement trays. They are designed to easily be used and to fit the following size bases. Citadel Games Workshop 20 x 20mm square, 25 x 25mm square, 25 x 25mm round and 40mm round. Will also fit the Malifaux lipped type bases in 30 x 30mm and 50 x 50mm (cannot be used on lipped 40 x 40mm due to base design). Likely will fit other type bases, but the ones noted are the main ones that have these issues, due to their smaller size and the positioning of the miniature that goes on it. Especially if it's in a bit of a leaping forward or action attacking pose. Usually it's the standard bearers that tend to topple over in game play. If you are using magnets, either to attach a Bloodbowl ball to the base or to attach the base to metal trays for carriage, then the beads can still be used. Just glue your magnets in first and then use the beads. PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THESE ARE NOT A GAMES WORKSHOP CITADEL ENDORSED WARHAMMER PRODUCT. THEY WERE NEVER SOLD BY GW BUT I'VE USED THOSE TERMS IN THIS DECRIPTION AS THEY ARE SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH WARHAMMER BASES (although they can be used with various other manufacturers plastic bases) AND SO THAT PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY FIND THIS PRODUCT. They are easy to use Lead pellets, just put superglue inside the bottom of the base, then hold the base over a tray to catch the excess Lead balls as these little beggars will roll all over the place and get absolutely everywhere. If you've got that hard flooring, then these balls will be worse than those things the Ninjas use! They roll really well because they are heavy and very uniform. Personally I keep them in an old plastic "take away" container. They are also absolute beggars to pick up, because of their size you cannot get your fingers round them. Try using a good sticky tape wrapped around your hand, to dab them up, then rub over it with the other hand over your container. Wash your hands afterwards as the item contains Lead, do not place in the mouth or swallow as it may be harmful if eaten or chewed. Wash your hands after handling and keep away from foodstuffs. Anyway, once you've got the glue in place, let it run around a bit (or use a toothpick to get it into the corners) and then pour on the Basing beads. Use a flat edge, such as a steel ruler or knife blade, to remove the excess, moving it across the bottom of the base. Leave to dry (do not turnover until fully dry!), and then give them a tap to check they are all attached. You can put an extra dab of superglue on top if you wish, personal choice really. Then use plastic glue to attach the model to the top side. Superglue dries pretty quick, so you can use these basing weight balls if the models already attached, but it's easier to do it prior. Once the Lead beads are fixed in place, they shouldn't really come in contact with the hands, due to the way miniatures are handled, by the sides of the base, or people picking up the miniature itself. If correctly fitted, then the surfaces that bases are placed on won't be discoloured, as the actual beads will be inset. But it is possible that storage foam might come into contact with the attached Lead pellets if there's a hell of a lot of prolonged shaking about, or they are depressed right into it. I can't see that being a big issue, but thought I'd mention it. A spray of undercoat over the base balls would sort that, or if the models been already painted, then a dab of black paint would seal them in. If you've put a layer of superglue over these little Lead spheres, as mentioned prior, then that would also sort it. Just thought I'd mention that for completeness, so you are covered. Remember if you do use superglue, then you'll get what's known as "bloom." This is the white vapours that will show clearly on the black plastic, due to superglues drying process. It can be rubbed off, or painted over, but be aware that it can occur. You may well fill your bases with Milliput (modellers Epoxy putty), Plaster of Paris or my preferred Base weight beads (because I sell them!). Seriously though, I've used Milliput and it doesn't bond well with the plastic and neither does Plaster of Paris. They do work, but they are messy, it takes ages to do and neither have the weight that Lead shot does. I definitely know that Milliput can later pop out of the base (as plastic gradually degrades and shrinks slightly over time), to which you then need to glue the Milliput back in again. I'm telling you this happens, as it happened to me, and it's a ballache! Some people use 1 pence or 2 pence pieces to weight bases, but again these coins do not have as much weight as the Base beads and, as with some base weight plugs that are sold by people, they can only be used for specific sizes of plastic bases. If you use 1p and 2p coins and want to have a magnetic ball in Bloodbowl then you may have to drill through the coin, which isn't easy. Plus the Base weight beads weigh more than these coins, which is the whole point and purpose of weighting your bases. I truly feel that the way to go, is to put a magnet in the base, a second one for the ball if needed (ensure you get the polarity the same way around) and to fill with Base weighting beads. The Lead Base weighting beads will roll and form into any space. This flow of base balls means that they can be used for a multitude of different base sizes. 1p and 2p coins do have the advantage that the newer minted ones (since September 1992) are not actually copper. This is because copper is now more valuable in weight than the coins value that it represents. Instead the newer coins are actually a mild steel core and electroplated in copper so are actually attracted to a magnet. An advantage being that you can then use magnetic sheeting on the shelves of a miniatures storage box to attach these to, or the movement trays, for transport. If you do this then please be sure to fix the coins in such a way that minimises the distance between the coin and the magnetic material. Due to the thickness of the coin and the depth of some bases you can get an air gap, which will affect grip dramatically. If you place the coin on the table and place a small ball of epoxy putty on top, then force the base down onto it, the coin will be flush to the bottom of the base. As I said earlier though your epoxy putty may lose it's grip over time, so when it's set you may want to dab on some superglue so that it runs round the hidden side of the coin to ensure it remains solid. Always wise to do this kind of work prior to having glued your miniature on the base, as the bases can just be turned over and will lay nice and flat. You can buy flexible adhesive backed magnetic material in tape, off a reel, or in sheets to cut yourself using scissors. You can also buy this magnetic material in precut pads for the bottom of bases for when the sheet is put on movement trays. The disadvantage being that the magnetic material works out pretty expensive when you add it all up, for the overall coverage that you are going to need for a Warhammer army. If you go that way make sure you get it in a thickness to give a good strong hold (be aware that magnetic sticky tape on a reel can be super thin and offers little grip). I've seen people put magnetic sheeting under the bases, on the top of the movement tray, then also underneath the movement tray, and also on their storage trays. Easy carriage, time saving to game, but this works out hideously expensive. The individual miniatures look nice from underneath though, but the movement trays depth is virtually taken up by the magnetic material. So miniatures tend to ride high in the standard trays. Also, When you use this magnetic sheet, you need to get the polarity right. I don't think a lot of people are aware of this issue. If you have regimental type bases, and cut the magnetic sheet in squares, it will not hold anywhere near as well if turned 90 degrees. This means if you have a 5 x 5 square movement tray, you need to align all the pads correctly before sticking them on. If you wish to use a 5 x 6 movement tray, thinking that you can have a different frontage (6 at the front with 5 ranks, or 5 at the front with 6 ranks), then it won't work. Unless you want them all facing the wrong way in game or not attaching as well to the tray in game. I know this for a fact, as I've fiddled here with it myself. An example being lightweight 1998 era Skaven slaves on 20mm x 20mm square bases (pre Age of Sigmar, AOS). I can hold the tray upside down if the minis are on correctly, but turn the bases 90 degrees then you've got no chance. The Skaven slaves are very light metal miniatures, not weighing much at all, if you have heavier miniatures (not so much an issue with plastics) then you will have problems. Just ensure that you use thick enough magnetic sheet because if it's too thin, the sheet will not have enough magnetic strength to hold the model in place, be sure to check your largest model first. I genuinely think that you are better off putting the much more powerful magnet in the base and instead using a steel tool box which they will then attach to (utterly excellent for 1st edition Man O War miniatures, which even have a hollow for the magnets). You can use magnets with a thin carbon steel shim or (also called steel foil, steel sheet or steel paper) on your movement trays, but it rusts, so you'll need to coat it with a non waterbased undercoat. If you are using carbon steel shim, degrease it and clean it up prior to painting, or any paint you put on will just not get a good grip and will lift off. This is because of the oil on the rollers, that is needed to manufacture the carbon steel shim. For cleaning it I'd advise Acetone (which is available in some nail varnish removers) or perhaps Isopropyl / Isopropanol alchohol (it's flammable, take full safety precautions). They'll evaporate leaving the surface clean, rather than a petroleum based such as White Spirit, although you'll get away with useing the latter. Get the right shim, don't buy stainless steel, it's more expensive and the magnets will not grip to it well, if at all. Please be aware that the thinner the shim, the more expensive it can get so to go a little thicker means you save money. I'd advise to buy it on a roll, rather than sheets of it, to save on wastage. The thinner shim steel can be cut with scissors, confirm with the seller first, tell them what you want, and they may even send you a few off cuts to test your magnets grip on. Magnets will also be attracted to the magnetic sheet but nowhere near as well. Even using large ones, 5mm x 2mm, the grip will be weak, so not very practical. If you choose to use Magnets with the steel shim on your movement trays, this is a win win situation, but may well fall out of fashion over time because of the more skirmish orientated Age Of Sigmar (AOS) rules. They really make a difference with plastic miniatures. I truly feel that to have magnets in the bases and carbon steel shim is the way to go, but it may come down to personal preference. You may instead wish to use magnetic sheet to attach to carbon steel shim lined boxes. I like KS storage, but setting up my Skaven army takes an age. In a separate listing I also sell small self adhesive pads to cover up the base weight beads. These are mainly sold with Bloodbowl in mind, to offer grip on the board, but might prove useful to you as they do look nice. The Velour pads are a synthetic material and finish off the base of any miniature nicely. They cover and effectively seal in these Lead balls and can be seen here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bloodbowl-Self-Adhesive-Basing-25mm-40mm-Round-Plastic-Bases-Sticky-Back-Velour-/142012388336 A larger size here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/142022043505?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT With this listing you will get a bag of Lead beads with each purchase, bases are not included, they are just shown to emphasise what the finished base will look like. The Lead pellets themselves are high quality and all uniform, which you may not get from other sellers. Also these miniature Lead weights are perfectly sized to ensure that they will not come into contact or mark surfaces if used correctly. Some beads may need to be removed if there are imperfections in the bases used. You can get this with the cheaper knock off versions of both Games Workshop and Malifaux products.Standard diving ballast that is sold is the wrong size to be practical and is not uniform, which causes issues. Trust me, I know. I found out the expensive hard way. I also looked at Fresh water fishing Lead split shot but due to it being toxic, it is no longer sold in various sizes due to it being illegal (with hefty fines in place). You can get it in other metals but it's split so not uniform or practical for modelling purposes. Likewise, I do not sell this product to be used for fishing. I sell two different amounts of these Lead base weight beads, (the other is on a separate listing). Both listings of base balls use the same size plastic bag in the picture, but the bag shown in the other listing (Bag size 1) actually has HALF as many actual Lead beads in it. This listing is for the larger amount that I sell (Bag size 2). To get an idea of the size of the bag you will receive, please look at the Games Workshop Citadel 20mm x 20mm (2 centimetres by 2 centimetres) square base that is shown in the bottom right hand corner of the picture (the one to it's left is 25mm x 25mm). Bag size 2 will fill approximately: Games Workshop Square, Warhammer Fantasy Battle (WHFB): 132 of the 20 x 20mm square closed bases. 83 of the 25 x 25mm square closed bases. You'll get even more out of the square or diagonal slotted type bases. Cavalry horse: 25 x 50mm WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. Round, Age of Sigmar (AOS): 107 of the 25mm round closed bases (The older deeper type circa 1985 era through to 2023, GW have put thinner ones in some 40K patrol boxes). 64 of the 32mm round closed Bloodbowl bases (99379999052). 43 of the 40mm round closed bases (with holes 99379999029). 37 of the 40mm round closed bases (without holes 99379999023). 23 of the 50mm round closed bases (99379999050). 13 of the 60mm round bases (99379999031). These can be seen in the second picture. Oval: 27 of the 60 x 35mm oval bases (99379999055). 32 of the 70 x 25mm oval bike bases (9937999904). These can be seen in the second picture. 17 of the 75 x 46mm oval bases (99379999054). 11 of the 90 x 52mm oval bases (99379999056). The beads are designed for smaller bases, specifically single models that topple easily. The larger bases, such as 32mm round and most of the oval design are a thicker base, so there is greater clearance between the beads and any surface that they are placed on. The base weight beads are not as necessary for larger based models, although you will find them useful for plastic or resin Bloodbowl players as pesky board knockers can seriously affect your teams gameplay otherwise. The pitches that are printed on roll out mats don't have this issue, but the card fold out type do. Personally I think it's nice to have a bit of weight to the playing pieces. OF NOTE: If you wish to weigh down really large bases then you need to be aware that drying glue can shrink thus pull & warp the base if not kept flat throughout. This can occur especially when using superglue activator. It is wise to place the base on a flat surface, glass is great for this, add the beads and superglue, then spray on the activator and push down all around the outside edges as it sets (you want to be sure to not have any glue on your fingers as the chemical reaction can get hot!). I know for sure they will not fit horse bases reference 101325 (GW 1991 Red catalogue) or the later 1988 era Horse bases reference 99379999020. I am unclear if they can be used on the much later Cavalry bases shown in the GW catalogue 2010, reference 992299999095 (open cavalry base), reference 992299999095 (closed cavalry base). I percieve that they will not be useful for them. Malifaux lipped type bases 84 of the 30mm lipped round bases (diagonal slot not filled). 25 of the 50mm lipped round bases (diagonal slot not filled). These beads will NOT work on the 40mm lipped round bases because they are made with a thicker plastic top (or the top scenic basing material recess is deeper), thus has less space to be filled underneath. Reaper These filling beads will not work on all the Reaper Base Boss plastic bases. This is because the larger sized bases need extra strength in them to prevent warping. As these bases are still the same overall height as the much smaller ones then something has to give. So the larger sized bases have a thicker plastic top making the available filling area smaller. This means that there is not enough clearance within the depth of the base and so leaves the beads riding high and exposed to the surface that the base is placed upon. Due to this I don't advise them for the larger sizes and a fair few of the smaller sizes as well. If the size is not shown below, then I have not checked them for fit. Square: 20mm x 20mm flat top square familiar bases (74040). 25mm lipped square bases (74015). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. 30mm lipped Hexagonal bases (74029). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. Cavalry horse: 50mm x 25mm cavalry (74012). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. Round: 25mm lipped round bases (74032)). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. 30mm lipped round display bases (74023). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. 32mm lipped round bases (74048). 40mm lipped round bases (74033). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. 50mm lipped round bases (74049). 60mm lipped round bases (74034. WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. 80mm lipped round bases (74061). 100mm lipped round bases (74062). 130mm lipped round bases (74063). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. 160mm lipped round bases (74064). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. Oval: 60mm x 35mm oval bases (74065). 70mm x 25mm oval bases (74071). 75mm x 46mm oval bases (74066). 90mm x 52mm oval bases (74067). 105 x 70mm oval bases (74068). 120 x 92mm oval bases (74069). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size. 170 x 105mm oval bases (75070). WILL NOT FIT. Please don't use for this size.Other manufacturersThe third picture shows a thinner 30mm round base type. The beads will fit this, but with minimal leeway. Very minimal. The air gap between them and any surface the finished bases are placed on will be very small. For these bases it is best to use a very low viscosity Superglue (which makes using the beads easier on any bases) and, as mentioned earlier, you will need to coat the beads or they may mark things. So wise to use them on models prior to painting, then spray undercoat them on the base as well, to seal in the beads. Infinity 25mm round bases. These beads will NOT work on these type bases. The bases are the same overall thickness as the 30mm ones shown In the third picture (the depth, total thickness is the same) but the available filling area is smaller. This is because the 25mm round base size is made with a thicker plastic top. These 25mm round bases are the same type that are sold with some Bloodbowl miniatures, as they have a specific area for a small magnet to be attached under the base. I believe Willy miniatures issue these with their miniatures. Sorry about the additional postage prices abroad, but Lead shot is a heavy item. I've had people want these Lead balls for all sorts, including Violin bow weight adjustment and to be mixed with plasticine modelling clay to balance science projects. Good feedback received on this product. SHOP LINK: Hygienic Porridge Miniature Emporium Thanks for looking. I only post to the invoice address. Please read postage, packaging, returns and payment details prior to bidding. Item is in good condition, unless otherwise stated. There may be residual paint on it, all miniatures have been washed to remove any residual chemical paint stripper, but I advise washing in soapy water with a toothbrush prior to painting, due to handling. I'm a collector, and honest seller, with excellent feedback. If there is an issue, then please contact to discuss, prior to leaving poor feedback. WARNING. This is not a children's toy. It is a collectable for adults and is not recommended for young children under the age of 14 years old. Use of the product is at the user’s own risk, who by purchasing accepts responsibility from the point of receipt. CHOKING HAZARD, may contain small parts. Please be aware that the items, and the packaging that they are received in, are a choking hazard and may restrict breathing. They may pose a DANGER OF SUFFOCATION so please either store or dispose of packaging carefully. Do not ingest and keep away from small children. Items received may contain Lead and other metals, do not place in the mouth or swallow as it may be harmful if eaten or chewed. Wash your hands after handling and keep away from foodstuffs. Use of gloves is advisable in handling, especially if you have allergies to the product. Items and parts sold may have sharp points, edges or a cutting blade, be aware and avoid puncture injury to the eyes. Store carefully as items may be a slip, trip or fall hazard.
Price: 16.5 GBP
Location: Portsmouth,, Hampshire
End Time: 2025-01-13T08:46:24.000Z
Shipping Cost: 15.49 GBP
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Item Specifics
Return postage will be paid by: Buyer
Returns Accepted: Returns Accepted
After receiving the item, your buyer should cancel the purchase within: 14 days
Return policy details: If required, please return items quickly, wrapped with original packaging. Enclose a covering note with your details, item number, your E-Bay identity and what the problem with the item was, so I can rectify any issues in future. Let me know by private message prior to sending anything, so we can discuss it. I really do work hard to get the hard to find original miniatures, books and items to the people who really want them. If you do contact me via E-Bay's private message, please click the "Other" reason option and we'll get it sorted. Model Cancellation Form (as required by consumer contracts (Information/Cancellation and Additional charges) Regulations 2013) To: J Moore 60 Garnier street Fratton Portsmouth, Hampshire PO1 1PD United Kingdom Email:imhornybabyuk@yahoo.co.uk I/We[*] hereby give notice that I/we[*] cancel my/our contract of sale of the following items/goods Ordered on/received on[*] Sales Invoice number: (as shown on invoice sent with item) Sales Record number: (as shown on invoice send with item) Delivery Note Number: (if shown on the posted packet) Name of consumer(s) Address of consumer(s) Signature of consumer(s) (only if this form is notified on paper) Date [*] Delete as appropriate
Base Balls: Round Bases
50mm bases: Plastic Gaming
40mm: Plastic Bases
Ballast: Lead Shot
MPN: BD2
Lead Weights: Gaming
40mm Round: Closed Bases
Can Be Used With Citadel Plastic Bases: 40 x 40mm
Miniatures / Books / Other: Miniatures
Weighting Bases: Modelling
Further Options: Basing Materials
Lead Pellets: Shot
Paint Options: Unpainted
Base Weighting: 20 x 20mm
Plastic Bases: Base Washers
Pellets: Weight
Oval Bases: Miniature
32mm: Fantasy Football
Bases: 25 x 25mm
Square Bases: Regiment
Brand: Unbranded
32mm Round: Wargaming Bases
Metal Miniature: Stands
Plastic Figures: Wargaming
Base Weight: Pellets
Country/Region of Manufacture: United Kingdom