Brand New Technics Belt SL-B10, B10A, SL-B20, B20A

Description: Belt for Technics SL-B10, SL-B20 Welcome to Atlanta Pro Sound Available as Buy it Now one (1) brand new replacement belt for Technics turntable, models SL-B10, SL-B10A SL-B20, SL-B20A. Please be sure to compare shipping prices!!! Do not get tricked into spending almost $6.00 for US regular delivery! There is a myth that one belt fits 95% of all turntables. In reality, nothing is further from the truth. A belt that is an inch too large or small will probably run on your turntable, but if it is too small, it will wear out your motor years before it would under normal conditions. If it is too large, it might also be bad for the motor, but as belts get older, they expand, so in the best case, you need a replacement years before you should. There are people online who have been selling belts for 5-10 years. Many have lots of feedback or websites that “look” like they know what they are doing. Do they really know what belt is the match for your turntable? Technics quit giving technical support on the models S-LB10, S-LB20, (including part numbers) about a decade and a half ago. When the models SLB10, SLB20, rolled off the assembly line, I was Assistant Store Manager for the largest independent Technics dealer in the Southeastern US. Read the Seller History below for more information. (In case you are wondering...I enter the model with the dash in different positions so those who search for the model can find it regardless of if they have the dash in the right place!) 5 Belt Measurements All flat rubber belts have 5 measurements that affect the belt's performance. Length is the one most people think of right away. Length affects how tight the belt is. If it is too tight, the motor will not run (or if it is just a little too tight, the motor will wear out quickly). Width is one you might not think is important, however, the manufacturers specify this one down to the 64th of an inch! If the belt is too wide, the risk is the belt will hit the outsides of the capstan, which will create momentary bumps in the speed. If the belt is too narrow, it does not have enough contact with the capstan, causing it to slip. Either of these problems may be inaudible at first, but later? Who knows? Thickness of the belt is the smallest of the measurements. Most Turntable belts are close to the same thickness, but your parts provider who has only a decade of experience might buy their belts based on length and their cost alone. You could get a belt that they bought wholesale at 99 cents but is way too thick! A belt that is too thick will not fully fold around the capstan, causing more pitch problems. If you call to complain, you are told that your turntable has natural Wow and Flutter. Friends: These models' Wow and Flutter is eight (8) times below the audible limit Don't let them pull the wool over your eyes! If you hear wow and flutter (a.k.a. bad speed fluctuation), you might just have the wrong size belt! (Sources: Julian Hirsch - Hirsch-Houck Labs and the Technics models SL-B1, SL-B1A SL-B2, SL-B2A, SL-B2K SL-B3, SL-B3A, SL-B5 and SL-B5A Service Manuals). External Diameter. This one is a no-brainer, it is closely related to the thickness and internal diameter. Internal Diameter. Like #4, this one is also a no-brainer, it is closely related to the thickness and external diameter. Many old-style belts were cut to size. Modern (get it out the door as fast as you can) cutting techniques can lead to inconsistencies and inferior product.This belt is not cut, it is precision molded to meet original factory specifications for the Technics SL-B10, SL-B10A SL-B20, SL-B20A. The belt you are about to receive was recently manufactured by the same company that made the first belts for the Technics models SL-B10, SL-B10A SL-B20, SL-B20A, . My distributor, Artistic Audio of Atlanta, buys thousands of belts made by this company and has been sending them all over the United States for many years. Every few of weeks Artistic Audio of Atlanta reorders belts buy the hundred, replacing the stock they have sold. No belt is on their shelf more than a few weeks. Because they come into the distributor regularly, I can personally guarantee that the belt you get is fresh! About these models: The SL-B10 is a fully manual belt drive turntable that was designed to operate at 33 and 45 RPMs. The designation SLB10A had a cartridge mounted in the tonearm before it left the factory. The turntable model itself was never changed, just the box and invoice! It has a straight tone arm and requires a P-Mount (T4P) Cartridge. This is a fully manual table, which means that you have to move the tone arm over to the record, press the stop/start button to spin the platter and retrieve the arm when the record is complete. After the record is complete, the turntable does absolutely nothing to the arm (I guess that is why its called fully manual!). The speed switch (far left) on the SLB10 was three position, 33, 45 and OFF. Off is represented by a single dot. If you own one of these turntables and the switch is in the middle (where the dot is) then the platter will not spin. Some are fooled into believing the table does not work, but all they need to do is flip the switch to 33 or 45! This is one of the few turntables with a power switch (right side). Early DJs used this model because they could defeat the rotation of the platter. The SLB10 has pitch control has controls (mid left side) for 33 and 45 RPMs. The pitch controls would raise the pitch (speed) by 8%. The turntable has a sleek, streamlined grey body and the controls are in front of the dust cover, so it can be operated without raising the cover. The RCA cable and the power cable detach, they plug in on the underside of the rear of the turntable. The SL-B20 is a semi-automatic belt drive turntable that was designed to operate at 33 and 45 RPMs. The designation SLB20A had a cartridge mounted in the tonearm before it left the factory. The turntable model itself was never changed, just the box and invoice! It has a straight tone arm and required a P-Mount (T4P) Cartridge. It is semi-automatic, which means that you have to move the tone arm over to the record, but once you do, the paltter starts spinning. After the record is complete, the turntable picks the arm up and returns to the off position. The speed switch (far left) on the SLB20 was three position, 33, 45 and OFF. Off is represented by a single dot. If you own one of these turntables and the switch is in the middle (where the dot is) then the platter will not spin. Some are fooled into believing the table does not work, but all they need to do is flip the switch to 33 or 45! This turntable does not have a power switch, which confuses some folks. If the turntable is plugged in and the belt is fresh, then it will start up when you move the arm over to the record (moving the arm activates a switch that starts the rotation). Where people expect a power switch, there is a switch that says "Cut" (right side). Pressing this switch will send the turntable into the cut-off mode, which turns it off after it completes a cycle. The SLB20 has pitch control has controls (mid left side) for 33 and 45 RPMs. The pitch controls would raise the pitch (speed) by 8%. The turntable has a sleek, streamlined grey body and the controls are in front of the dust cover, so it can be operated without raising the cover. The RCA cable and the power cable detach, they plug in on the underside of the rear of the turntable. Are you about to purchase one of these models? The motor and drive system are built like a tank. Seeing it run may be your least concern. Here is what I check before buying: It should have a T-4P cartridge. The plugs straight into the arm. To remove it, unscrew the screw in the tonearm and pull straight forward.. The cartridge should have a stylus. Styluses are “needles” that have the piece that touches the grove and plays the record. Look at the stylus. Does it have a piece of metal that lowers to the record, and is there a tip on the end of it? There are too many kinds of styluses to list them all on eBay. I have about 2,000 in stock, I probably have the one you need. If you need a stylus, click on “Ask Seller a Question” to send me a message. This one is really simple, but important. Check to see that there is a counter balance on the back end of the tone arm. The counter balance is about the size of a "C" battery. Sometimes they get broken in shipping or with abuse. These are not generic and “one size does not fit all.” The last one is really easy to check as well. There is a black plastic bar in front of the place where the tonearm pivots. That is the arm lifter. It should move up and down when you change the position of the “cue” switch (front right) You may have heard someone say that the sound of vinyl sounds better than CDs. “How can this be?” you may wonder...the CDs do not have that scratchy sound. It is a matter of detail, really. You can prove it yourself with a $20.00 thrift-store turntable and a generic stylus. Get a copy of something easy to get, something acoustic, something like James Taylor's, Carly Simon's or Carol King's greatest hits. (The demonstration works best with acoustic guitar, harp or lute, but once you have noticed the difference, you will be able to hear the difference on everything! The introduction to Ventura Highway by America will work well also.) Play it on your turntable, and listen especially to the very beginnings of each note in the guitar. Focus your attention to the very beginnings of each plucked string. The strings will sound almost like you can hear each of them roll off of the player's fingers. That is the way it should sound all of the time. Now, play the same selection on a CD. You will probably notice that the beginnings of the notes sound muffled or slow. The beginnings of the notes on the CD have much less detail than their counterparts on vinyl. The reason is built into the way CD players work. CDs have a sampling rate of 44,100 samples per second. What this means is the volume level of a given sound is recorded at that frequency. ••••• Under Construction - Insert New Table Here! ••••• While the volume of the actual string is getting progressively louder, the volume on the CD recording is an average. As a note quickly gets louder, the CD sounds like stair steps, because we have a recording of averages for the length of time of the sample. This is why the vinyl sounds more like the original sound than the CD. Once you hear this, you will always look at listening for detail in the sound differently. Buying a new belt so you can transfer all your vinyl to CD? If you have read and understand the previous section, then you might want to re-think. The CD recording you make can not possibly sound the same as the vinyl, because in making the recording, you are creating the same stair-stepping sound that does not sound as good as the original vinyl! OK, OK, if you want to make CDs for the car, go ahead, but if you want to make CDs for detailed listening, maybe you should keep your vinyl. Georgia Residents will pay 7% Sales Tax. Shipping and handling is only $1.99 to any point in the USA. Belts are shipped by USPS Ground Advantage (2-5 Day expected delivery). Please, ask in advance about international shipping. Priority Mail shipping to the US is available for $9.65. Most items are shipped within 1 business day. Thanks in advance for your purchase!

Price: 8.8 USD

Location: Monroe, Georgia

End Time: 2024-01-27T00:37:19.000Z

Shipping Cost: 0.99 USD